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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. But, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.